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Update to March 6 and 7 2026 The unit switched off cooling at March 6, 3:30 pm and I waited to see if it might start cooling again. At 6:00 pm the machine had not started up again cooling, the room was 17 degrees, so I switched it off the power point, and allowed the machine to reset over again. Reset does NOT mean I changed any machine parameters, only that the machine was physically forced to switch off and on again . It really drained the batteries, pulling 45 amps
As you can see the compressor frequency is close to 80 Hz And the amps consumed is
Around 40 to 42 amps, with battery 80% fully charged.
Within a few minutes the room temperature was back to 15 degrees.
This is an interesting image. My own machine has never seen this. I suspect because my desired temperature setting is OUTSIDE of the factory pre-set parameters designed for automatic defrost Experimenting with 1 degree, the fins should experience -8 degrees and begin auto defrosting. We will test this for 2 days. ------------------------
Like so, on a new desired setting (1 degree) all functions are on
The machine is working hard ( 80 Hz compressor cycles ) on 8:27 am, March 7.
And pulling 40 amps from batteries.
About 10 minutes later the room is already at 4 degrees.
System parameters
Notice the compressor working hard on 80 Hz
taking 43 amps from the battery.
On a cloudy dizzling day, 99% humidity.
Ambient temperature is 26 degrees, 99% humidity.
The air temperature leaving the exhaust compressor fan is 32 degrees and only 60% humidity. (Warm dry air)
I think around 8:52 (nearly 40 minutes later) the cooling icon is OFF and the dripping icon is on !!! (red arrows) This is great news It shows if the desired temperature is within the parameters of the pre set factory parameters, the auto defrosting works fine. The reason why I chose 1 degree is because I knew the cooling fins would get to -7 degrees and be cold enough to meet factory parameters. So there is nothing wrong with the ducted exhaust outlet, the environment, or the machine, the problem is the factory pre set parameters do not work when the desired temperature is 8 degrees. Problem is now two fold: at minimum running it seems to use 30 amps instead of 15 amps. Too high for my battery supply. And two, too cold for storing potatoes, etc.
And at 8:53, about 30 minutes of running, the cooling is OFF and the dripping is ON
Here the machine has run itself back to 16 amps.
parameters
Compressor is not ON
The amps in is 65 A amps out is 29 While keeping up on a dizzle day the current draw is high .... Hmmm?
Because the unit is cooling, to keep it at zero, or 1 degree.
This means 700 Watt being used, less 150 W, 570W of actual cooling the room to keep it at 1 degree. This is alot higher (350 W of coooling) for 8 degrees, but at this lower desired setting, the unit self defrosts. ------------------------
Update
At 11 am, about 2 and half hours, the dripping symbol came on The machine is ON, but nothing is happening I can hear?
parameters
This is strange? I am not aware of a P6 alarm at 8:56 am?
Interesting to see this?
Nearly 12 amps leaving the battery for no sound of function? Is the unit heating itself quietly? About 288 W of it? Hmm? Checked at 11:30 am, the unit is cooling again, fan running, dripping OFF. It took only less than 30 minutes to achieve normal cooling again. But the cost is too high (39 amps) and the temperature too cold. (1 degree) But at least it is working fine, cooling, defrosting and doing the right things :) Now how do I get it do this for 8 degrees? ------------------------
Update for march 8 Sunday 2026 Based on current use (25 to 30 amps) I calculated the unit would run out of power at about midnight. And so the unit has stopped and I switched it OFF at 5:30 am I will now test the unit for 5 degrees as the desired setting. This should place the cooling fins into minus 2 degrees and perhaps be within factor parameters for auto defrost and dripping icon to come on. I will see. It's another cloudy, drizzle day, and not much power available just yet. Around 10 am, there is barely enough to start, the battery is on 26.3 V (about 30% fully charged)
Overnight the room warmed from minus 1 to 8 degrees. Power coming in is 29, and the air con is using 43 amps.
The fins are cooled to minus 3 so icying might occur and maybe do an auto defrost ? Compressor working hard at 73 Hz. Power in and out nearly match.
Cooling fins are minus 11, enough for icing? Compressor is not working hard 32 Hz Room at desired temp, so the machine is winding itself back.
Notice winding back, (red arrow) consuming only 19 amps. It took only 24 minutes to get the room from 11 degrees to 6 degrees.
At desired temp, the machine works at 40 Hz Notice the red box, incoming fridgerant is converted from 0 to 36 degrees by the compressor motor. I did not see any defrosting or dripping icon, so I wonder? Saw no P6 alarm either. I notice at times the winding back the fins get to postive values so icing may not occur. So maybe 5 degrees is an upper limit to proper working? We will see.
Checking the unit at 12 noon, 2 hours after running. Great news, the unit shows the cooling is OFF and the dripping in ON. Also notice the fridgerant liquid temp is nearly the same in and out (49 & 50) , meaning the compressor is OFF. But I just missed photographing this, the compressor switches on to 50Hz and begins cooling again (power out is 45 Amps). This is good news. I will allow it to run for a day and night, and see if any P6 alarms come on. ------------------------
Now I reset the unit on 7 degrees at 4:00 pm
The unit runs on 40Hz (not hard) removing 25 Amps, around 600 W, less 150W for fans, that is 450W of cooling. A problem I see is the cooling fins reach 1 degree when the room temperature of 7 degrees is reached, and this is not enough I feel to cause ice, and enter pre set factory settings for auto defrost. We will see. I have observed the compressor can turn off, so maybe now things are programmed, the unit will function normally? Tonight will tell. And it is raining on and off. A real test.
The unit has been running for 30 minutes.
Cooling is only 2 degrees, not enough to ice. Compressor is not working hard: 24Hz
Raining hard and getting 2 amps at nearly 5pm Air con is removing 17 amps - nice. Now lets see if it makes it in the morning ! Without P6 alarms, that would be nice ! ------------------------
It's 6 am in the morning, raining on and off all night. What is nice is the compressor is down to 20Hz, hence pressure is low 185 Pls What is suspect is the cooling fins at 1 degree is too warm to do auto defrost. So I suspect I will not see dripping again? I also note no P6 alarms all night !!
And keeping the room at 6 to 7 degrees might be OK? At least I know this desired temperature setting works.
About 15 amps is running the Inverter all night. That is 360 W of power, 36W to run Inverter when doing nothing. 150W to run fans, doing nothing to cooling. That leaves 174 W of cooling ( 24 Hz & 185 Pls) I am hoping this cooling rate does not cause a P6 alarm? Though I have seen the machine switch off cooling altogether (0 hz ) So let's see what a rainy day brings. I might have just 2 hours of power left. Not much will come from panels on a rainy day? We will see. So far the air con is running nciely. ------------------ Update
Room temperature at 9 , power increasing 26A It's 7:30 am, raining all day as drizzle. Power coming in only 2 Amps.
Cooling fins at (minus 2) is nice. Compressor at 40 Hz, working moderately. Power is getting low, but everything is OK. No P6 alarms, no problems with machine :)
The unit has been running early into the morning (8:30 am) very well, no problems. Drizzle weather. Solar panels keeping up with demand. We will see how this goes all day. ------------------
At 13:49 (about 2 pm) after runing OK since 5pm yesterday I caught the unit moments before a P6 alarm. Notice the cooling is OFF and the dripping is ON But suddenly the compressor fires up (50 Hz)
Here the P6 alarm is on (13:51) And the compressor switches off (red arrow) and ( 0 Hz) This is odd? Moments before the compressor is working hard (50 Hz) The cooling fin is 22 degrees (very warm) The Back Pressure is 336 Pls (too high) The power is 42 amps (very high) And seconds later, a P6 alarm comes on and the cooling unit and fan, and everything switches OFF. This is a problem. It suggests to me that 7 degrees is barely just possible for the monoblock. The highest setting tested so far that works is 6 degrees.
The unit recovers quickly with 10 minutes. The is great news The cooling fin temp is a worry (2 degrees) NOT (minus 2 degrees) so the P6 alarm is possible, as the defrost conditions will noto be met? I will let this run for a few days and evaluate how many P6 alarms I get. ------------------------
Update March 10 Tuesday, 6 am The unit is OFF, due to P6 alarm since 2 am.
The room temp has warmed to 10 degrees, the cooling fins are at 15 degrees, and everything is shut down.
I tried a manual reset, but the unit will not begin cooling again. Perhaps the reason is because the pressure is still 100 Pls? This is a problem for engineers and for me. While the unit words well for 6 degrees. It does NOT work well for 7 degrees or 8 degrees. Six degrees is too cold for storing potatoes, pumpkin veggies and citus fruit. We have a problem. Shalom
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